Armed with
inside information from the helpful and friendly CAMRA staff working the Beer Festival I set off on a pubcrawl of Hull. Split over Friday night and most of Saturday intended concentrating on the docks, the old town and two microbreweries just north of Freetown Way. Unfortunately time and the tiring effects of walking in the heatwave prevented me heading north and to the east of Beverley Road for the three bars in the University area (Xanders, Pave & Larkins) so apologies to them for the omission.
First up Green Bricks 9 Humber Dock Street HU1 1TB its Marina location was probably the best thing about this pub. Sky rugby dominated the spacious, open plan bar/lounge At 7.30 Friday night it wasn't exactly jumping, but what customers there were seemed ready for a fight. A tight knot of blokes in their mid 30s were just about keeping in check a younger group around the pool table who seemed intent on hassling every female in the place. One or two stand-offs produced no physical contact, but sensing it to be just a matter of time I downed my Daleside Blond in double quick time and got going. Oddly no bouncers on the door and one barman working alone. Shame. With a few more beers to choose from and a less threatening atmosphere could be a decent waterfront boozer. Maybe more pleasant during the day.
Followed the waterfront down to Nelson Street for the Minerva Hotel which seemed to be caught in a 70s time warp. Every stereotype of hotel bars from that era to be found here. Overall impression was stuffy with too much furniture crammed in to too small an area and too many people having barely enough room to stand yet being oh, so polite about it. If the Green Bricks clientèle had been forced into this space then the inevitable eruption would have been brought forward and everyone could have gone up the road early. As it was being a thoroughly decent and civil crowd they made the most of, even seemed to enjoy, the forced proximity. Me? I find places like this stifling and even though I had a perfectly conditioned pint of Black Sheep couldn't wait to get out. On the way noticed that despite being on the waterfront all the glass was frosted thus blocking out what could potentially be one of the best views in town.
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| They take their arrows seriously here |
After two rushed pints decided to walk
them off with a stroll along Humber Street across Castle Street, up High Street and onto Wilcomlee to the Bay Horse 113 - 117 Wincolmlee HU2 8AH. This route involves parralleling the river Hull upstream from the Humber through the Trinity area and Old town into a Batemans' house. Usually available are a full range of their beers plus a guest, but perhaps with the festival on down the road they decided to cut back. Barman apologised he could only offer XB so that's what I had. Not my favourite style but in perfectly good condition. Much more comfortable, relaxing and friendly boozer. The big Rugby game was on but didn't dominate because the telly was smaller. Couples played darts, there where posters on the walls promoting boxing bouts from a bygone era and stone jars decorated the corners and shelves. Safe to say the Bay Horse regulars were a more mature crowd. As the darts action heated up and a team from another pub arrived for what looked like a serious match I decided to make tracks for the first of two brewhouses on the night's itinerary.
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| Whalebone 163 Wincolmlee HU2 0PA |
With entrances on Lincoln St and Wilcolmlee the Whalebone is wedged into a corner tenement building and good use is made of an awkward space, From the Wilcolmlee entrance there is an area in front of the bar like a homely front room with table and chairs round a fireplace from where the rugby was being eagerly followed. Round the side of the bar there was more of a lounge feel with people sitting chatting without the distraction of the pundits' analysis. Walls were decorated with pictures mostly of old Hull. Not cluttered, just enough to give the place a bit of character. At the time of night I visited it was after dark and the lights were dimmed. Beer choice wasn't spectacular Wadworth's Henrys IPA, Taylors Landlord, plus two Ciders and the house beers. Tried the mild first. Diana (3.4%) is I suspect named after a steam powered Whaleship, one of the last operating out of the port. One disastrous mission saw her trapped in ice in Baffin Bay where she remained over the winter escaping with only half her crew alive. Later she sank in 1869 - the excellent Maritime Museum in Queen Victoria Square is very informative. And that is the most remarkable thing about this beer, except perhaps that it only costs £1.50. If it wasn't black I don't think I would've known it was supposed to be a mild. The Neck Oil, a 3.9 % bitter, was if anything worse. The only taste I got from it was polythene. I was desperate to enjoy these beers but price and clarity of the bitter aside I can't think of anything positive to say about them. Great atmospheric, friendly pub just the same.
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| Save the Whale: don't drink its Neck Oil |
Back down Wilcolmlee, right onto Green Lane then Cannon Street and Liddell Street took me to The Wellington 55 Russell Street HU2 9AB. No televised rugby here, in fact nothing but chatting and drinking. Bare creaky floorboards with tables, chairs and high stools round three sides of the bar made for a basic feel. The first house beer tried was His Grace a bright straw coloured beer which tasted deceptively sweet, easy drinking and in great condition. The Beef on the other hand was a fruity brown bitter, dragged down slightly by some slightly sour notes. Interesting just the same. There were four cask guests, Bernard Dark on draught and a large selection of foreign bottles. I liked this pub so much it was the only one to get a second visit. I returned last thing on Saturday night to sample some of the guests. Lost my notes but do remember a cracking pint of Abbeydale Moonshine. If you only have time for one in Hull, this would be my tip.
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| Best pub in Hull |
Finally on Friday night I crossed Freetown Way, down Percy Street turning left for a basement bar
the Hop & Vine 24 Albion St HU1 3TG. Cosy wee place, clean and uncluttered. Two beers on when I arrived Tom Woods Tipsy Toad and Brentwoods Maple Mild. Beer was OK, not great. Perhaps the condition of the beers in the Wellington had spoiled me, or perhaps an afternoon at the Festival and an evening's drinking had caught up. Either way called it a night after the Hop which was fitting because it was the perfect setting for a late night, after dark pint.
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The laid back Hop & Vine. If you want to know what beer
is on have a look here |
The remainder of Hull's city centre pubs are located within a 5 minute walk in a "T" formation along Silver Street/Scale Lane crossed with
High Street. Olde White Harte 25 Silver St HU1 1JG is to this town what Ye Olde Trip To Jerusalem is to Nottingham. Briefly a working, historic pub with a conservative beer selection. The courtyard is in a narrow lane half way along Silver Street.
Inside its all dark wood and creaking floorboards. The upstairs Plotting room was going unused when I visited early Saturday evening which seems a shame because the smell of food wafting about downstairs put me off my pint. The beer was Theakstons plus three from Caledonian. Some bad disco music did undermine the atmosphere, but as I say this is a working pub not a museum.
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| Book me a seat |
Oscars Bar Suffolk Hse 21 Silver St HU1 1JG is next along the drag. When I visited it was getting on Saturday night. Deuchars IPA and something else I couldn't read the pumpclip of was on. It was too dark and I couldn't hear what the barmaid said it was. The atmosphere seemed ok, there was a band on. Beer choice wasn't that impressive and I wasn't really in the mood for a loud music bar but it seemed pleasant enough if that is what you are looking for.
Moving along the main drag takes you to Walters which has the largest choice of beers in the area. Tring, Partners, Potbelly all represented. Condition of the beer was good, if cold. The place was very clean, almost sterile. More of a cafe than a bar. There were Music LP sleeves decorating the wall. All framed and lined up in neat rows and columns. Comfy leather chairs in the back around low tables, with the volume of the music making it hard to hear what people sitting opposite you were saying. At the front the bar was all chrome and wood, looks great when you first walk in, but not the sort of place you would linger. If I lived in Hull I would probably be in here two or three times a week to see what beers were on, but I don't think I would stay for more than a couple.
Further along the Manchester Arms, Scale Lane HU1 1LA is set back from the main road. A Mansfield house with two beers on when I visited: the breweries own Bitter and Wychwoods Bountiful. Beer was a bit cold. I was the only paying customer in the house, perhaps because of the bad 1980s pop music being played too loudly. The rear lounge was spacious and comfortable and seemed totally at odds with the surround-sound music system which made it feel more like a club than a pub. Overall impression was of a series of incongruous elements randomly stuck together.
At the end of Scale lane
turn left for the Lion and Key 48 High St HU1 1QE. Approaching the same level of beer choice as Walters with a similar selection (Partners, Marston Moor, Great Newsome) quality and temperature were slightly better. Brewing equipment in the corner hints at plans for house beers, but one of the locals had a lot of jokey remarks about how long that project has been in the works. Over two levels food seems to be a big part of this pub with the more plush dining area upstairs and in the alcoves by the entrance, with the bar area given over to drinking. This makes for a good balance. A tidy little city centre alehouse.
Two remaining pubs I visited
were also on the High street the other side of Scale Lane. Olde Black Boy 150 High St HU1 1PS very similar to White Harte, perhaps smaller with a better beer selection. Same dark wood, same Middle Ages sense of history with narrow passages/staircases. Main bar area was enclosed, no natural light.
Sailmakers Arms 159 High Street, HU1 1NQ was in a courtyard off the high street. Inside all clean neat lines, pine furniture and smart comfy seats. Well lit from big windows, the sort of place you would take people who are uncomfortable in proper pubs for something to eat, whilst still being able to enjoy a drink yourself. Two beers and a cider on. Can't remember what I had to drink, totally passed me by.
